Mount Baldy traverse via west ridge

I have wanted to do the Mount Baldy traverse since I started noticing athletes reporting their feats on Strava last year. I have done Mount Baldy (north) a few times now, and the south (once with Kate) so I was feeling pretty confident about traversing the range.

Mount Baldy is in Kananaskis alongside Highway 40. It’s a popular one for Calgarians since it is about an hour drive from the city. There’s three peaks (north, south and west) of varying routes and difficulty. Most hikers do one or two peaks and call it a day. Because I love the physical and mental challenge, I decided to connect the peaks in one go.

Choosing the Mount Baldy traverse route

The only question remained – which direction to take? Options varied, with some routes more sketchy than others. Last week a runner told me the down climb from north Baldy to south was very sketchy. Another said the best way was via the west ridge.

I researched before deciding to start from the west ridge. Many reports noted difficult scrambling in some sections. After looking at some videos and photos, I felt confident. My route: West Ridge to West Baldy to South Baldy to North Baldy then descend the usual out-and-back route from the north summit, run 1.5 kilometres along Hwy 40 to my car.

West Ridge of Mount Baldy

I parked at the Baldy Pass parking lot before walking the 600 metres to the drainage where the trail began. I always avoid parking on the side of the highway. The trail through the trees was easy to find. It was mini grind but I was happy to have service to take a call from Carleigh. I was surprised to see pieces of cloth tied to trees as markers then later two cairns.

The route was well-marked and straight forward. The scrambly section, through short, felt long as I moved cautiously. I had read several route reviews – so many that I forgot what was climbers’ right or left – so I relied on my own instincts to scramble the rock slabs. Honestly I psyched myself out slightly before I even started because I read reviews that rated the scramble from everything from a walk in a park to absolutely terrifying. The first few scramble sections were nothing more than pedestrian.

I wasn’t 100% confident in my new shoes but I wasn’t panicky or freaked out when I reached the harder sections. I just calmly considered my options. If I wasn’t feeling a section, I would simply look at other ways to ascend. Several options existed to avoid the crux by either going down to the loose rock then up to the ridge again. For one brief moment, I considered avoiding the last scramble because of my lack of confidence in my shoes. But I pulled myself together and managed to haul myself over to the ridge.

Disclaimer: This scramble is rated as moderate in Alan Kane’s Scramble in the Canadian Rockies. Attempt if you are confident and can handle exposure. I am overly cautious in anything I do especially when I am on a solo adventure.

Mount Baldy West peak

It was a short ridge walk to the summit. Shortly after I began traversing I spotted two guys at the summit. We waved (as one does). I was really happy to see signs of life. When I started that morning, I didn’t see a single soul. Immediately they were like – where did you come from? We had a good chat about the route. They also gave me some ideas for various descents from South and North Baldy. The views were beautiful, and I could see many people on South Baldy.

South Baldy peak

It was an easy down climb to the saddle between West and South Baldy. There was some snow that I happily trotted through because it was getting hot. The climb to this peak was uneventful – just some rocky/scree-ish switchbacks, and cheering hikers at the summit.

I was happy to take a breather and chat with hikers on South Baldy. They said my bright orange shirt really stood out on the mountain. (Tip: Always wear bright clothing when you are in the mountains. This way any rescue crews can find you.) While I sat down to regroup and have a snack, I convinced one male hiker to hike to West Baldy. More hikers traversed over from North Baldy. Assuring me that I would have no trouble, they said to stick to the right on the tough section.

North Baldy peak

I couldn’t believe the stream of people coming down from the North peak. I remember when MK and LC and I had done Baldy North and we looked at the sketchy down climb. Maybe it wasn’t that bad? Two English guys caught up with me just as I was about to start the scramble. They were also doing the Mount Baldy traverse. The one guy had just watched as his red helmet rolled down the mountain, and minutes before that he dropped his pole. We had a fun laugh over is bad luck.

I stayed closed to the rock as a couple of sections were very tight – one wrong step and I would fall. The final scramble to the north peak provided to be my crux. From afar it looked relatively generic but it was super tight. I watched the two guys ascend from a distance so I went the same route. My hydration pack (with poles) snagged and I bagged my helmet on my first attempt. I jumped down twice to reassess my options. Eventually after my time out and pep talk, I hauled my butt up over just left of where the guys went up.

I was so happy to reach the north peak and to complete the Mount Baldy traverse. I had second guessed myself a few times that morning but I am really proud of myself for pulling off this solo feat. I also ripped the seat of my shorts at some point on the west ridge. I was convinced everyone could see my bright orange underwear. Nope – just looks like I ripped a pocket.

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