Running the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim

I wanted to do something extraordinary for my birthday in November.

Running the Grand Canyon from one rim to the other then back (R2R2R) met all my criteria. It would be challenging. I would have to dig deep. And most of all, it would be an experience that I would never forget.

I had planned to run alone but after a chance meeting with an old friend on Prairie mountain meant I would have some company for the adventure.

Training

I didn’t do any specific training for the run (roughly 82 kilometres, 3,100 metre gain) because I knew all the work I had put in for my races this year would be enough. My elevation game also has been strong this year so I knew it would carry me through the day.

Basic plan

I decided to run Thanksgiving weekend while the water was still on in the Grand Canyon. There are spots that have potable and drinkable water at certain times during the year. It would also be slightly cooler in October. Fly into Vegas. Rent a car. Drive to the south rim. It was a four-hour drive that I didn’t mind too much because I got to see more of the states. It also allowed us to stop in little towns and at the Hoover Dam on our way back to Vegas. We rented a hotel room just outside the rim in a little town called Tusayan. It was about a 10 minute-drive to the canyon. Starting and ending at the south rim made the most sense because there are more accommodation options than at the north rim.

Let’s run – South Kaibab trail to North Kaibab to the north rim

From the south rim, we could take either the South Kaibab trail or the Bright Angel trail to link up with the North Kaibab trail to reach the Grand Canyon’s north rim. Our research showed that most people took the SK trail down then returned on the BA trail so that’s what we did.

We took a shuttle from the Visitor Centre at 5 a.m. to the SK trail. We tried to get a cab earlier but it didn’t work out. An early start meant less time in the heat. Because we got in late the night before, we didn’t get the chance to see the canyon. My first look and steps on the canyon would be in the dark.

The shuttle was packed with runners and hikers who had various plans for the day. Some were hiking down SK then up BA. Two young guys were also running R2R2R. Later in the day we would meet them again on their way back from the north rim while we were still making our way there.

I have to tell you. I was feeling all kinds of crazy excitement and emotions. I couldn’t actually believe I was in the canyon. (Little ‘ol me from rural Nova Scotia) I started jogging down the trail, hugging the canyon wall, a little teary because here I was about to traverse one of the natural wonders of the world.

I tried not to get too far ahead of Barb who was carefully descending behind. Our paces are quite different but I wasn’t concerned about our finishing time. I was happy to have someone to share this epic experience with.

Everyone was chatty on the shuttle and in the line to get on the bus. Now it was eerie quiet but I knew I wasn’t alone as headlamps in the distance led the way. The first views of the canyon were magical. The day was just beginning and there was so much more to see. Never once was I worried about the distance or the elevation. This wasn’t a race so I wanted to soak in every moment and enjoy this spectacular site.

I was excited to see the famous canyon mules not long into our run. We were asked by one of the cowboys to step off the trail and let them pass. Boy, were they fast.

Later through the day I would come across tourists who had booked about a year in advance to ride the mules in the canyon. By the expression of the some the riders, it did not look comfortable especially on the down hills.

Barb and I set into an easy rhythm as we continued to descent some pretty tight switchbacks – regrouping every now and then. We did a few mini photo shoots and marvelled over the epic views. Barb and a friend had backpacked across the rim and back with a night’s rest in between so she knew what was in store.

It warmed up pretty quickly but I didn’t shed any clothing until much later in the morning. I prefer wearing long sleeves because I don’t like to get too tanned.

The main stops on the two trails to the north rim were: Ooh Aah Point, Cedar Ridge, Skeleton Point, Tip Off, Bright Angel Camp, Phantom Ranch, Cottonwood, Manzanita and the Coconino Overlook.

Overall the trails were well-marked, nicely maintained and wide. (You’re not going to miss a step and fall into the canyon) Our first view of the Colorado River was at Skeleton Point but it wasn’t until we crossed the Kaibab Suspension Bridge that we got a good look. I was waiting for Barb to emerge from the tunnel when a runner from Flagstaff caught up to me.

He had run in to meet his girlfriend who works in the canyon as a fish biologist. I commented on the colour of the river. He said that there have been a lot of storms in the region this year which resulted in the poor turbidity.

Within a couple kilometres, we reached the infamous Phantom Ranch, where you could buy lemonade, a beer or snacks. It was so early in the day neither one of us wanted to linger too long. There were lots of people hanging out at picnic tables and chatting.

We filled up our bladders with drinkable water and keep moving along. The water was marked either potable or drinkable on the trails. You had to treat the potable water but the drinkable didn’t need to be filtered or treated. To be on the safe side, we dropped water purification tablets in our bladders.

We were now running on the North Kaibab trail to the north rim. We were roughly half way to the north rim. (I can’t remember the exact distances.) Our next water stop would be Cottonwood – some 11 km away (and from there another 10 km to the north rim). This next section was wonderfully mostly flat. The only annoying thing were these little rock stopper things that jutted up on the trail so you would be running along nicely then you would have to mind your step because these little things could be dangerous.

At Cottonwood, we chatted with two old guys from Colorado and Texas who were coming from the north rim. They had camped here years ago and had the time of theirs lives. One had visited Alberta years ago for work and loved to go back one day. A few kilometres later we stopped at the Manzanita Rest Area for a water check and more snacks. I made sure to stuff something into mouth every time I stopped for water.

We left the Manzanita Rest Area in high spirits. We would be at the north rim in 5 miles or was it 8 miles? A hiker told me it would only be another 5 miles to the north rim but it would be steep. Along the way this distance kept changing as I began to ask people the distance (more to amuse myself than anything).

I had carried my poles in my Quiver but I didn’t feel like I needed them on the climbs. It was mostly switchbacks and gradual climbs – nothing crazy.

We caught up with a woman who was hiking to the north rim. She had planned to take the shuttle back to the south rim. From above I could see her and Barb leapfrogging along the switchbacks. (Sadly she would miss the shuttle so she had to call her husband for a ride.)

My climbing game was pretty strong and I didn’t feel like I needed to use my poles at all. It was now in the heat of the day. I admit I had just a little ounce of satisfaction as I kept passing who were resting. I kept thinking, the faster I climb, the faster I can reach the north rim.

Around this time, Barb decided to turn around. I would catch up with her later. We thought I would reach the north rim within half an hour. Boy were we wrong. I think it took me close to an hour from where we parted.

Thankfully it was mostly in the shade after I reached the Coconino Overlook. While climbing, I always do an assessment of the trail for descending. I was pretty excited to run down because the climbing was getting to be a little too much. I lost some of my wheels in the last two kilometres but I was determined not to stop until I reached the north rim.

And guess what? I did it! I made it to the north rim to little to no fanfare. I removed my pack and immediately began charging my Garmin and devouring a peanut butter and jam sandwich. I chatted with a guy from Phoenix who was waiting for his friends. He had trained to hike R2R but sadly broke an ankle or something a week out from his hike.

I was excited to run. My legs had enough of the climbing. There were some spots that were sketchy but mostly I was in for a nice descent. I spent about 10 minutes eating and hydrating before I took off. I pulled out my poles for some help on the downs (I would end up carrying them until I reached the BA trail.) I knew it would be possibly hours before I caught up with Barb again because the downhills were sweet for running.

There were three women from New York who were also doing R2R2R. I passed them before the Manzanita Rest Area. I didn’t expect to see them again as I was moving quite fast (for me). I wanted to make up some time and catch up with Barb, and run as much as I could before the sun set around 6:30 p.m.

I didn’t see many people after the Cottonwood. Most people had reached their destination at this point in the day. I remember stopping at 50k thinking I feel so good right now. I chatted with a guy for a bit who told me I looked fresh as a daisy for someone who had just run 50K.

I chatted with the few people I crossed paths with on the trail. Everyone was so kind and friendly, advising me to be careful. At Phantom Ranch I confirmed directions to the Bright Angel trail with a few hikers. I couldn’t remember exactly where I would reach the trail.

It was dark before I reached the BA trail and the silver suspension bridge spanning the Colorado River. The silver bridge freaked me out. I don’t know what it was about it but it was so spooky and long. I didn’t want to stop or look around. I couldn’t wait to get off that bridge. I felt like I was in some horror movie where the bridge went on and on forever.

There was a full moon so it wasn’t completely dark. My headlamp decided to be a little wonky – turning on and off so I pulled out my back up and strapped it to my head. Around 65 kilometres in, my stomach started to do some somersaults. By the time I reached the Indian Gardens, I had major cramping and I had to stop and will my body to move. I wondered if Barb was one of the headlamps that I saw in the distance.

A few very slow kilometres later, I began puking all the water up in my body. There was some relief but I was not feeling well at all. Somehow I managed to keep moving. Eventually I ran into a girl who was sitting on a rock without her headlamp on. She asked me if my name was Crystal. She had chatted with Barb earlier. She offered me food and water then I kept moving. A few minutes later I heard Barb’s voice. I called up and sure enough it was Barb! I tried to tell her I needed something for my stomach but it was hard to hear with all the echoes.

Eventually I made it up to her and I was never so happy to see a familiar face. I was puking water regularly now so it was nice to have company. Barb said she never saw someone puke so much water in her life. I was like a water faucet.

(Those three runners who I smugly passed earlier caught up with me while I was puking on the side of the trail.)

Barb wasn’t feeling 100% either but she didn’t lose her stomach contents like I did. I was barely moving in the end but I finished running the Grand Canyon R2R2R. (Mostly because Barb was so kind and encouraging especially when I declared I wanted to sacrifice my body to the canyon.)

The next morning, we checked out part of the SK and BA trails since we started and finished in the dark. We wanted to see what we missed. Thankfully it was another glorious day. I think it might have been hotter than the previous day.

I took LOTs of photos. If you want to see them please check out my Instagram feed and story archive. I recorded video diaries while in the canyon, which you can see in my story highlights.

Final thoughts on running the Grand Canyon R2R2R

Looking back I think getting sick was just one of those things. Likely the last water fill up didn’t filter properly. The canyon’s heat played a part too.

Never once did I think that I wouldn’t be able to finish the run. My fuelling and training was bang on. I have been running ultra distances for a long time now and I know what my body is capable of doing. Mostly it’s a mind over matter thing. I had the mental toughness and determination to meet my goal.

Two things that I want you take away from my Grand Canyon experience: 1. You too can do hard things 2. Believing in yourself is all that matters. Ignore the haters.