My bus ride was too long. I kept nodding off but every now and then a loud voice speaking in Hindi would quickly interrupt my sleep and I would immediately wake.
I took the government run bus to Jaisalmer. Once again I was not disappointed with the scenery. Everything I ever read or heard about desert life proved to be legitimate. I saw solitary camels eating from trees, sari-clad women pumping water from wells and men wearing turbans leading a flock of cattle with a staff. Rajasthan seems to have stood still in time when the rest of India has moved forward.
Jaisalmer, a Golden City in the middle of a barren desertscape evokes images of ancient times. The massive fort that is in the centre of the city was built in 1156 by Rajput ruler Jaisala, who fulfilled Krishna’s prophecy that his descendants will rule there one day.
More than 300 families live within the fort walls. Narrow streets carved from sandstone give way to temples, shops, hotels and havelis.
Sadly, the fort is on the World Monuments Watch list of 100 endangered sites. Ironically enough the contributing factor is water. Drainage, consumption and misuse of water add to the weakening site fort. Looking from my hotel balcony, I can easily identify areas ready to collapse. I made the ethical decision to stay outside the fort walls.
After a stand off with a rickshaw driver, I made my way to the hotel Miriam and Mike suggested. I cleaned up and I ventured inside the fort. It really is striking, marvelous and all those other synonyms that fail to come to mind whenever I try to write. Beautiful sandstone and golden colors create such a cheerful atmosphere that you can’t help be in a good mood. Yet, the reflection and heat of the sun’s rays can quickly you put you in a foul mood.
I organized my camel safari for tomorrow evening. Like others, this is the main reason I came to Rajasthan…to see the camels and the desert. Not only is it a great way to see the villages and traditional lives of the people but you can get away from all the merchant crap and just be one with the earth.
After running a few errands, I was becoming hungry so I chose to go to a restaurant recommended by the Lonely Planet. Usually I don’t visit any restaurants these guide books suggest because it’s more fun to explore on your own.
While I was going up the stairs, a man ran up ahead of me and yelled down to me the restaurant is up here. I said thank you and followed him up. The restaurant was completely empty save for a few waiters. To my surprise, the man sat down across from me. I assumed it was his restaurant.
When I look back now, I distinctly remember asking him if he were the restaurant owner and he replied yes. He spoke in Hindi a few times to the staff and I assumed he was just making small talk.
Thinking he doesn’t want anything from me since I am already in his restaurant, I talked to him while I ate my meal. I can’t remember his name but he spoke English with barely an accent so I could easily understand him. He lived in Perth, Australia for a few years so we chatted about traveling and India.
When I finished eating, I said my goodbyes but then to my surprise again, he ran down the stairs ahead of me. He said, “Let me give you my business card for my shop before you go”. He pointed to “his” clothing shop and gave me his card. I walked quickly away.
I was duped. It turns out this guy didn’t own the restaurant. He probably saw me walk in and thought he would hustle me into shopping at his clothing store.
I need to be more careful. By then it was after 8 pm and I had to walk back to my hotel in complete darkness. A few men drove by me on motorcycles and offered rides. I ignored them all until one guy said, “Why are you walking so fast? Why are you so scared? We are not lions. We don’t want to eat you.”
I laughed to myself, walked even faster and found my hotel.