real darling cafe in hanoi


Declining invitations to kiss construction workers, to ride water buffaloes and to drink with dodgy hotel owners, I emerged from Ninh Binh refreshed and reinvigorated. It sure is hard work being a vagabond.

Everyone who visits Hanoi seems to stay in the Old Quarter. I have been no exception. My chosen street has been Hang Quat. Again, I have shunned the most popular hotspots. Traditionally, the streets in the Old Quarter were named after the product that was sold in the street. (“Hang” means merchandise and the word following would be the product) So my street would translate to “fan street”. What is sold on the street today, however, is much more colorful than simple fans: funeral boxes, flags and temple items. Buddha is everywhere.

Exploring the Old Quarter gives visitors a good dose of Vietnamese culture. Everyday Vietnamese people are going on with their lives and ignoring foreigners. Many pleasant afternoons are spent wandering through the narrow alleys and walkways. You never know what you’re going to see.

I’ve been staying at the Little Darling Café. Kat and I found this place, the morning we arrived from Hue. It’s listed in the Lonely Planet but the main reason we stayed here was because it was the first guesthouse we stumbled upon after another overnight bus. When I went off to Halong Bay, Kat continued on until she met her boyfriend. Then I came back and stayed until I went to Sapa. After Sapa, I stayed again for a day until I went to Ninh Binh and here I find myself again.

To tell you the truth, I have stayed at much better accommodations but it’s the staff that compels me to return. When you’ve been on the road so much, it’s nice to feel welcomed. The pregnant woman that works here makes me laugh. Although she calls me Kristin not Crystal, I still get a kick out of humor. We shared a few laughs over a few strange incidents. Also, she was very helpful with obtaining my VISA for India.

I’ve been pulling my weight around the guesthouse too. At the request of one of the managers I practiced English conversation with one of the new employees. Even though I am sick to death of teaching English, I complied. The other day, I even went to the bank and changed some money for them. I’m beginning to think I should start charging money.

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